Monday, July 23, 2012

Floating up the Rhine


 We went on a beautiful outing to the eastern part of Switzerland, where we lived after marrying.  Joined by Hans's parents and our former employers, Ludwig & Agnes, we took a boat ride from the Bodensee (Lake Constance) up the Rhine.  
 The landscape here is quite different from that of central Switzerland, where Hans grew up.  Flat land and gentle hills make for excellent bicycling.  Lining the shores are charming small towns ~ German on one side, Swiss on the other ~ and boats make their way back and forth across the waters, stopping at each village.
 We had our midday meal on the boat.
Then relaxed as we peacefully made our way up the Rhine.
 Per and his grandfather.
 All too soon, the boat ride ended and in Schaffhausen we looked at the Rhine Falls.  I last visited here 17 years ago, with my parents, just the day before Jan was born.

I love Swiss trains, our mode of transport for the return leg of the journey.


Ludwig & Agnes

Swiss Time


 Returning from Spain to Switzerland, we spent a forgettable night in Grenoble.  I did learn that, despite a book title's assurance to the contrary, French women ~ and men, presumably ~ do indeed get fat.
 We stopped in Lausanne for another visit with Doris & Waldemar, then drove along the shore for a castle visit.
 Situated directly on Lake Geneva, Chateau Chillon is one of the best-preserved castles in Switzerland.

Returning to central Switzerland, we spent a couple of dull, rain-soaked days doing nothing memorable.  The next week was filled with a good deal more visiting, including a wonderful evening with Rene ~ who, along with Josef, witnessed our slope-side marriage ceremony some 17 years ago ~ and his bride, Susanne.  Alas, I forgot my camera that evening so memories alone will have to suffice.
 The next day we went to the convent where Hans's aunt, Sister Verena, lives.
 So sweet and bird-like, Sister Verena is quite possibly the kindest person I've ever known.  She and the other sisters are so delighted to greet visitors, especially children.
 One interesting element to the convent is this doll museum.  Some of the items are collected from around the world and donated by friends and family member of the nuns.
 Other items, like these wood toys and marionettes, were made by the nuns themselves.  Truly remarkable.
 Our dinner that evening was a contrast to the time spent at the convent.  We marveled over Kandi & Brigitte's new home, sitting on their spacious balcony with its view of the Alps and consuming vast quantities of good food and wine thanks to their gracious hospitality.
 Another evening, we gathered with two other families and shared a good meal.  Some twenty-odd years ago these three guys ~ Hans, Christof, and Toni ~ sat next to one another in farming school.  Good times then and now.
 Evidence of Leo's recent 50th birthday festivities decorated the Elmiger's home when we arrived for a visit.
Leo & Beni and their three beautiful daughters.
Driving through the neighboring village of Sempach one afternoon, we happened across this group playing their alphorns.
 The gateway to Sempach, where in 1386 the Swiss defeated the Austrians.
 Our fearless leader put many miles on the Renault Escape.  An apt name, as one does have an overwhelming desire to escape when trapped in this vehicle.
 Along the shores of Lake Lucerne...
 ...you can find the Fortress Fürigen, built during the height of World War II.  Switzerland's vast network of secret of bunkers, tunnels, and fortresses, along with a highly proficient military, are evidence of its preparedness. The Swiss don't take their neutrality for granted ~ and no one else better, either.  This particular fortress was in use until the late-1980s and now serves as a museum.
Swiss Army coats and salutes (by some!) aside, I don't know that these five would make the cut.

Spain

 We spent a few nights at this vacation home, located an hour north of Barcelona and a short drive from the coast.  It's owned by Margrit  & Antonio ~ our Swiss aunt & Spanish uncle who live in Germany.  Unfortunately, their vacation didn't coincide with ours so we weren't able to see them, or benefit from Antonio's expertise at guiding tours in his native country.
Our first day, we found our way to Sant Feliu de Guixols, a welcoming coastal town in which to while away a few hours.  The guys lounged on the beach and frolicked in the Mediterranean.  I develop a nervous tic when exposed to too many bare boobies and men in skimpy Speedos and opted instead to explore the side streets.
 Mid-afternoon, Hans & I sat at the beach cafe, having a drink.  The all-important Euro Cup game between Spain & Portugal was slated for that evening, and I displayed my stellar language skills in assuring the server that I was allergic to the Portuguese.  He rewarded me with a wristband, cap, and t-shirt to don during the game and display my loyalty.
 The drive down the coast offers one breathtaking view after another, such as this look toward Tossa de Mar.
 Tossa, like so many beach towns, has its share of unattractive clutter on its perimeter, but the medieval, walled Old Town is glorious.  We absolutely loved poking around these ancient streets.  Although Per, as evidenced in the corner of this photo, still found time to mess with his phone and anticipate the aforementioned soccer game.
 The setting sun cast a golden glow over the stone castle walls.
 Ambling through the old town.
 We found a comfortable restaurant in Tossa in which to eat good food and watch Spain defeat Portugal in a nail-biting penalty shoot-out.
Time for a day trip to Barcelona and how I do wish Columbus here would have pointed us directly to our destination ~ Camp Nou, home to the almighty FC Barcelona soccer team.  
Stuffing a family of seven into a mini-van with a questionable transmission and fairly useless air conditioning ~ on a day when the temperature reaches 106 F, nonetheless ~ and driving around a city with a street layout that defies logic is FUN!  Ahem.  But at long last, we arrived at the much-vaunted stadium, ready to begin our Camp Nou Experience.
The "experience" consists of forking over ridiculous sums of money and, along with thousands of other similarly possessed fans, shuffling through the museum ~ where the team history is relayed and memorabilia and trophies are displayed, all in truly worshipful fashion.  
This chapel alongside the tunnel to the stadium confirms the relationship of sports and religion.  Here our heroes may go and petition God for success on the field.  
Cost of the tour?  A pretty euro.  Reasonableness in spending the majority of our only day in a world-class city at a soccer stadium?  Questionable.  Value in seeing Per, our FC Barcelona fanatic, at the pitch?  Priceless.  After all, its "More Than Just a Club".
Post-Camp Nou, our time in Barcelona was limited to meandering about in an effort to find any space not occupied by approximately one gazillion other tourists.  
"Yes, guys.  For every soccer stadium visited, you must vist one building of genuine historical significance."  The Barcelona Cathedral filled the bill.
As night fell, we strolled the waterfront, welcomed the cool(er) temperature, and ate dinner in a suitably tourist-oriented restaurant where no self-respecting Barcelona resident would likely step foot.  But with seven mouths to feed and a Germany-Italy game to watch, it served our purposes.  
The next day it was already time to return to the Alpine region.  We took our time driving up the Costa Brava, again marveling at views like this.
I plan to spend my next life in the village of Begur...
...preferably at this villa, lounging under lemon & olive groves, drinking vast quantities of wine, listening to church bells toll, smelling the Mediterranean sea air, and occasionally swimming a lap or two for good measure.